Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Mayo is Back

Several people recently, quite independently have regaled me with stories of how they make homemade mayo. Amy Scattergood’s LA Times article offers another take:

Back in the day of 19th century French chef (and sauce expert) Antonin Carême, mayonnaise was made by stirring vinegar and egg yolks with small increments of oil -- relentlessly, with a wooden spoon, for upward of 15 minutes -- until the sauce slowly came together.

The oil droplets bond with the water-based liquids -- traditionally just the yolks and vinegar -- and as the droplets become smaller and smaller, the mixture combines, or emulsifies, until the mayonnaise is thick, custardy and as yellow as butter.

When you make mayo in a blender, the principle is the same -- oil is slowly added to the yolk-vinegar mixture -- but the whirring blades make the process far easier.

Menu’s of late are starting to feature mayo in creative ways. How do you use mayo?